A new Chinatown stunner is offering irresistible food and views
While San Francisco has no shortage of fine-dining establishments, amazing views are still hard to come by. Empress by Boon, the new Chinatown stunner occupying a refurbished banquet hall, delivers not only on the views, but also on the fun, dramatic entrance that can be the start of an incredible dining experience. Just take the elevator to the 6th floor, let the doors slide open, and walk into a fairytale, with the city skyline as your backdrop.
Ok, you’ll say, if the views are that incredible, the food must be mediocre? But Empress, led by Michelin-star chef Ho Chee Boon, is no tourist trap. Ho, who comes to the project after 30 years at the international Hakkasan group, created a 7-course prix-fixe menu that manages to simultaneously thrill and comfort; from picture-perfect Iberico Ham Shanghai Xiao Long Bao to the lacquered, delicate Grilled Alaskan Black Cod, every dish delivers. “I wanted our culinary team to have the opportunity to master a smaller menu first before expanding to allow them to get comfortable in our kitchen and be acquainted with the techniques and ingredients we use,” says Ho of the decision to forgo a-la cart for the opening months. “The prix-fixe became so popular among diners, that we decided to keep it while offering a few items, including our Peking duck.”
The menu features primarily Hos variations on Cantonese cuisine, while highlighting seasonal Californian produce. The restaurant has its own farm in Gilroy, where veggies like bok choy and lettuce are grown for the kitchen’s needs. “I want to create a seasonal menu that emphasizes our farm,” Ho says. “As the restaurant evolves, we will see the menu increase and the items coming from our farm increase as well. Not only will you see our produce offering increase but our local proteins as well.”
At the moment, in addition to the cod, star proteins include chicken, crispy and served in a layered, rich curry, prawns - incredibly fun to bite into when hiding in steamed zucchini dumplings, and the aforementioned duck, a special meal guests are invited to share. The wine list, created by Haley Moore, and the beverage program, developed by bar director Emily Parian, “are just as important as our culinary team and by pairing the two creates an elevated dining experience that heightens the senses.” Ho says.
And speaking of senses, it would be especially wise to book a window-facing table before sunset, to fully take in the restaurant’s photogenic interiors and lucky vantage point. At the price of $78 per diner, a visit to Empress can be even a special weekday treat. “I want to provide guests with a memorable, yet accessible dining experience,” says Ho. “We welcome all levels of diners to Empress by Ho and aim to offer everyone in our community an opportunity to enjoy our modern Cantonese food creations.”
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