New Wave or Old School—There’s A Doughnut for Every Vibe

Is it doughnut or donut? Doesn’t really matter. What matters is that there’s never been a better time to be a doughnut fan, and San Francisco has enough variety to please most. Yes, the classic Southeast Asian–owned shops—shoutout to @thedonutkingfilm— can still be found throughout the city, and these places serve patrons with affordable (and nostalgic) nourishment. But, we’re queuing up some offerings that are distinct in their doughnut vibe. And, let’s face it; these disciples wouldn’t be in business without America’s love affair with sugar, flour and the fryer. All hail the mighty doughnut.

Johnny Doughnuts, on the border of Western Addition and Hayes Valley, is a great place to take a seat and tackle one of their giant raised doughnuts, glazed with classic (chocolate and maple) and fruity (passionfruit and blueberry) flavors. Not sure if it’s the addition of mashed potatoes or the finesse of the recipes, but these doughnuts don’t possess the usual greasy uneasiness that can strike after eating one (or three). Pair their trademark sugar-dusted Crodough (a cross between a doughnut and a croissant) with a cup of Equator coffee, and log on to their free wi-fi and then spend some time working or relaxing in their industrial dining space.

Vandor Hill, of Whack Donuts, learned to make doughnuts when he was in high school, and he continued to bake as a hobby until last June when Covid-19 pushed him, like a lot of other creatives, to turn his part-time passion into a legit business. His baked, not fried, vegan doughnuts are sought after for their cakey-like interior and expressive flavors. Think rose horchata and Thai tea. The goal was to make a vegan doughnut taste delicious. Goal achieved. He’s currently popping up in Russian Hill’s Soapbox Cafe and Bayview’s Speakeasy Brewery every week. Follow him on Instagram @whackdonuts for his weekly schedule.

Polk Street wouldn’t be the same without Bob’s Donuts, a 60-plus year institution, known for delicious, reliable and satisfying doughnuts. Open 24-hours every day of the week, Bob’s is the place where if you wait in line long enough, you’re bound to run into someone you know. They’re known for their apple fritters; and because they fry throughout the day, you don’t have to worry about them running out. Are you looking for a classic Bob’s raised doughnut with savory embellishments like maple and bacon or cream cheese and chive? Then, head over to their new location in NoPa which opened in late 2019.

The Mission District neighborhood is rejoicing now that The Jelly Donut has reopened after a two-year seismic retrofit renovation and remodel. This small corner mom-and pop-doughnut shop is run by first-generation Cambodian-American siblings who learned the business from their parents. These doughnuts are authentic, light, yeasty, with a pleasing taste of realness that comes from those behind and in front of the pastry case.

Mochi doughnuts have really proliferated throughout the nation, thanks in part to our obsession with global flavors and ingredients. Rice flour is the secret ingredient that makes these airy, yet chewy rings so delectable (and different). Mochill Mochidonut, in the Japan Center Mall, is part of a larger chain of doughnut outlets; and flavors like black sesame, fruity pebbles and matcha oreo rotate regularly so check their social for the week’s lineup. The iconic “pon de ring” shape resembles a baby’s teething ring. I’d happily “cut” my teeth on one anyday.

Just off 19th Avenue, in the Sunset is Twisted Donuts, a friendly neighborhood doughnut shop run by Paul and Joyce Lin. They’ve got the classics—raised glazed, buttermilk bar and blueberry cake—but, on the weekends, they break out the “twisted” flavors. They’re known for their ube cake version, a dense doughnut made from purple yams. These sweet, starchy tubers have been a staple in Filipino desserts; and within the last few years, have become a trendy ingredient in doughnuts and doughs.